Earlier today (Sept. 3, 2025), just as I was wrapping up the final touches on this page I’ve been working on for quite a while, a news alert stopped me in my tracks. There had been a tragic accident involving the Glória Funicular in Lisbon. I even decided to remove a short video I had taken on that very ride: it suddenly felt different seeing it. Life really is both precious and fragile. My heart goes out to everyone affected by this terrible event.
Putting this page together has taken me much longer than I thought it would. Over the years, I’ve been lucky enough to visit Lisbon seven times, and going through all the photos brought back so many memories. This city means a lot to me, and today my thoughts are especially with those who lost their lives. May their memory be a blessing.
I love Lisbon. I have returned to this beloved city numerous times. I love Lisbon not because it’s one of the closest and cheapest Western European cities I can fly to from Toronto, not because it lacks world-famous landmarks or attractions, not because it has lost much of its former lustre as an empire, not because of its Fado music that lingers in your soul long after a performance, not because its residents manage to hold on to traditions without being overbearing, and not because it has a fabulous food scene.
I love Lisbon because, in so many ways, it reflects how I see and relate to the world: a place that appears secular yet where the church still plays an important role; a people with both a glorious past and well-documented wrongdoings; a city that has its charms as well as its drabness; and a people who are both hard-working and fun-loving. Its complexity, its ordinariness, and its contradictions are what I love about this city. Lisbon is also the city where I have traveled with my high school pals, with a fellow retired teacher, and where I once met up with a friend who happened to be laying over.
My very first visit to Lisbon was over the Christmas holiday in 2013. After spending five days in Amsterdam, where the days were short and the weather gloomy, I booked a cheap ticket and checked into the simple but functional Poets Hostel in the lively Chiado District. My room overlooked a bustling square, and it was a short walk to Bertrand Bookstore, which claims to be the oldest operating bookstore in the world. From my small balcony, I could watch Tram 28 chugging up the hill on a bend.
One of the highlights of that trip was an outing organized by the hostel: a small group of us went to a Fado restaurant in the Alfama District. The voice of the angelic singer, accompanied by a pair of older guitarists, is still etched in my soul. Later that evening, the restaurant’s owner took the mic and serenaded us with several songs. Our group leader told us that one of the main reasons he opened the restaurant was so he could sing every night. From his expression and manner, I could see how ecstatic he was when he sang to us.
Thirteen months later, during March Break in 2015, I checked into Poets Hostel again. I think the room rate was still €25. One night, I joined a small group of young travelers from the hostel for dinner at a nearby restaurant. Being in Europe, we didn’t sit down until 9:00 p.m. Afterwards, our guide took us to a few local bars in Chiado where students were socializing. In addition to the guide, our group included a woman from Russia, a couple from Australia, and a guy from the United States. We had wonderful conversations about our travels, and by the time we walked back to the hostel, it was well past 2 a.m.
In August 2016, I returned to Lisbon again—this time with three friends from high school at the tail end of a trip through Spain and Portugal. I acted as an unofficial tour guide and took them to some of my favourite sites.
That became a bit of a pattern, because I came back to Lisbon in November 2019, and again in January and May 2023. On each visit, I discovered something new. For example, in a recent visit, I took a local train to the seaside town of Cascais and spent a leisurely day there. On a different occasion, I wandered aimlessly in Alfama and chanced upon a little cafe and had hearty lunch among some men who were playing cards.
I am happy when I am “lost” in this city.
More photo collages
Photos from the trips to Lisbon over the years:
Sites to visit and things to do
Lisbon is a walkable, though hilly, city. It has an excellent public transit system, and the metro line links the airport to downtown. If you are staying for a few days, consider purchasing the Lisboa Card, which includes unlimited travel on public transit (including trains to Sintra and Cascais) as well as free or discounted admission to many museums and monuments.
Tram 28 is famous for still using historic trams and winds through the narrow streets of the Alfama neighborhood. Do watch out for pickpockets if you ride this tram. The city also has numerous funiculars. For example, the Elevador da Glória, Elevador da Bica, and Elevador do Lavra will save you from hiking up steep hills.
Although Lisbon doesn’t have globally iconic landmarks like the Eiffel Tower or Big Ben, there are plenty of important sites to explore: the Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’s Castle), the National Pantheon, Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora, the National Tile Museum, and the National Coach Museum, to name just a few. A short ferry ride across the Tagus River offers great views of the city. Attending a Fado performance in a local restaurant in Alfama should be on everyone’s list. The soulful music is mesmerizing.
The Jerónimos Monastery and nearby sites in Belém — such as the Belém Tower and the Monument to the Discoveries — are well worth the short tram ride.
For a day trip from Lisbon, Sintra is a short train ride away. The colorful Palácio da Pena (Pena Palace) and the medieval Moorish Castle are both must-see highlights.
Some restaurants suggestions
If you enjoy seafood, Lisbon is a great city to sample it. Besides the countless varieties of cod, you can also enjoy octopus, clams, mussels, and other types of fish. If seafood is not your thing, grilled chicken, pork chops on a bun, and other hearty meals are plentiful. Of course, when in Portugal, you must try pastel de nata. Pastéis de Belém claims to be its birthplace, and it is definitely worth a visit.
Many restaurants will bring you olives, cheese, and bread even if you didn’t order them; you’ll only pay if you eat them. Prices are fairly reasonable. I had some excellent meals at the following restaurants:
Grelha do Carmo on R. da Condessa 3A, 1200-120 Lisboa was where a small group of us from the Poets Hostel had dinner. I had the cod and potatoes and it was delicious.
As Bifanas do Afonso R. da Madalena 146, 1100-340 Lisboa serves up inexpensive but tasty pork chops on a bun.
Cantinho Do Avillez R. Serpa Pinto 10A, 1200-026 Lisboa, is not a Michelin star restaurant but its chef José Avillez owns a couple other restaurants that are. I had an exquisite lunch here.
Time Out Market Mercado da Ribeira, Av. 24 de Julho, 1200-479 Lisboa is lively and has great vibe. A good place to sample smaller plates from more than one restaurant.
Restaurante Bota Alta Tv. da Queimada 37, 1200-364 Lisboa is a popular restaurant in the Chiado District but it appears to be temporary closed as of August 2025.
Additional Links
- I once had an epiphany near the Poets Hostel when I spotted a group of youngsters on an outing and I wrote this: Epiphany on the road: Why I Travel
- Sites that I bookmarked on Google Maps for Lisbon. I try to add a brief description for each location.
- Amateur Traveler podcast episode 448 is on Lisbon
- Rick Steves’ Lisbon travel resources